London Trend Week (LFW) has propelled ahead the careers of vogue legends like Stella McCartney, Victoria Beckham and the late Alexander McQueen.
Whereas numerous these designers have taken their collections elsewhere – presenting on the likes of Paris Trend Week – luckily there nonetheless stays loads of thrilling British and worldwide designers at LFW’s fortieth anniversary.
Burberry is among the many stalwarts for this years’ London Trend Week.
Out of the so-called ‘huge 4’ – alongside New York, Milan and Paris – London has a fame for being youthful and revolutionary, and extremely welcoming to up-and-coming designers who quickly would possibly develop into huge gamers.
And the upcoming SS25 season – happening from 12-17 September – will showcase simply how a lot expertise is within the UK. With new designers to look at alongside stalwarts like Burberry and JW Anderson, right here’s what it is advisable to learn about this London Trend Week…
New names
The British Trend Council’s Newgen initiative was arrange in 1993 to help one of the best rising vogue design skills, and this season’s lineup actually doesn’t disappoint.
Seven new designers will floor because of the scheme, together with Steve O Smith, Pauline Dujancourt, and Yaku Stapleton. Stapleton received the distinguished L’Oréal’s Professionnel Inventive Award for his MA ‘costume design couture’ assortment at Central Saint Martins in 2023, that includes reptilian puffer jackets and moon boots created from recycled sample paper and bin scraps: maybe a nod to the trade’s wasteful observe report.
Standing Floor, Karoline Vitto and Johanna Parv are additionally all staging standalone reveals throughout London Trend Week.
London-based Brazilian designer Vitto made historical past at Milan Trend Week final 12 months, presenting her SS24 assortment with a full curve solid that includes mannequin Ashley Graham: the present was supported by Dolce & Gabbana (pictured above).
The Newgen catwalk is taking over a brand new location this season, transferring from The Previous Selfridges Lodge to its former residence at 180 The Strand. This transfer echoes a reversion to custom, because the occasion celebrates its fortieth birthday.
Sustainability highlight
PETA has beforehand protested towards using animal merchandise in vogue at LFW.
This 12 months, London Trend Week has made a aware effort to hearken to its critics and develop into extra sustainable. The occasion continues to implement its ban on fur – which isn’t in place within the likes of Milan and Paris – reflecting a stronger dedication to animal welfare insurance policies and sustainability.
Many designers are integrating eco-friendly practices resembling publishing bespoke sustainability targets, with the British Trend Council pushing for adherence to the UN’s Sustainable Improvement Objectives (SDGs). This shift is central to the collections and occasions for SS24, and will probably be fascinating to see whether or not labels absolutely undertake requirements to match their fashion.
Previous faithfuls
The Princess of Wales wore a chic peplum swimsuit from Erdem for the Commonwealth Day Service final 12 months.
As thrilling it’s to see new names seem on the schedule, London is holding agency to a handful of of previous British faithfuls – together with Richard Quinn and Princess of Wales’ favoured labels, Erdem, Burberry and Roksanda.
Returning designers and lacking names
Singer Olivia Rodrigo is one among many LA stars who has worn Nensi Dojaka’s designs on the pink carpet.
Designer Nensi Dojaka – who received the 2021 LVMH prize – has been absent for the previous two seasons, final exhibiting a set for the SS24 present through lookbook. The Albanian-born clothier established her namesake label shortly after graduating from the distinguished MA course at Central Saint Martins in 2019, and her designs have been worn by the likes of Hailey Bieber, Emma Corrin and Olivia Rodrigo (pictured above).
This season, Dojaka returns to the schedule in a giant Saturday evening slot, bringing her signature aesthetic of sheer kinds and figure-hugging silhouettes again to London.
British-American designer Harris Reed – who additionally helms French vogue model Nina Ricci – can be formally on the schedule for the primary time, after making a reputation for himself along with his legendary Thursday evening reveals over the previous few years, that includes appearances from the likes of actor Florence Pugh and mannequin Ashley Graham.
Whereas they’re welcome additions, just a few huge names are lacking – like Molly Goddard (identified for her voluminous tulle designs) and Dilara Findikoglu.
