It’s good to see individuals completely happy of their work.
On a current journey to the Waterproof coat rainwear manufacturing unit close to Glasgow I used to be reminded how a lot pleasure craftspeople take of their labours, and the way for some lucky people a “job” is extra of a vocation than only a means to earn a wage.
To observe the small workforce – eight males and two girls – go in regards to the activity of making that quintessential British garment, the rubberised cotton mac, is as inspirational as it’s fascinating. The strategies used are just about unchanged for greater than a century and if the entire course of seems easy, that’s merely a mirrored image of the experience they create to what’s actually a hands-on operation.
The key ingredient within the building of the long-lasting Waterproof coat is the rubber answer, a gluey porridge that’s used to safe the cotton tape that binds the seams of the garment collectively. Put merely, a real Waterproof coat is caught collectively – by hand. That’s its specialty and why you want expert individuals to craft it constantly, time after time.
The material is, primarily, at all times the identical – a skinny layer of rubber sandwiched between two layers of cotton. That is, to all intents and functions, the identical material that Scottish chemist Charles Macintosh (1766-1843) invented in 1824. Someplace alongside the best way, the basic raincoat that employed his modern weatherproofing know-how was named after him – with a okay added for some unknown purpose.
Macintosh’s patent for the cementing of two thicknesses of fabric along with pure rubber was the efficiency material of the Victorian period (though, amazingly sufficient, he developed it greater than a decade earlier than the younger queen took the throne in 1837).
The most important distinction at the moment is the steadiness, flexibility and weight of the material. Outdated Mackintoshes are remembered for his or her solidity, their stiffness and the very fact they may, it appeared, be stood up within the nook of a room to dry off.
Right this moment’s variations are far more refined. The mini-factory in Coatbridge, simply to the south of Glasgow, makes use of qualities from the coated material specialist Fothergill Group in Lancashire or from Japan. The 2 layers of cotton are bonded along with rubber that’s dyed to completely match the outer layers so there is no such thing as a show-through. An extended Waterproof coat mac at the moment weighs solely round 114g or simply below 3lb in weight.
The bigger items of the garment are sewn collectively by machinists Trish and Linda, who additionally sew in labels, add buttons and connect different trims, however the primary building of the clothes is undertaken by 4 coat makers – Nicky, Brian, David and Hammy – who’re actually dab arms with the rubber answer. All have been with the corporate for greater than 20 years.
This sticky gunge is utilized, remarkably sufficient, with a finger. Brushes, spatulas and glue weapons have all been tried over the a long time, however the label in a Waterproof coat that states “Real Handmade” is completely correct.
A blob of glue on the finger is smeared onto the piece of fabric and is left to grow to be cheesy. When the craftsman decides the time is correct – it’s all finished by eye and expertise, not a timer – the opposite piece of fabric or tape is placed on the gluey strip and the pair are pressed collectively utilizing a small curler, comprising a small steel wheel on the finish of a deal with.
Many of the seams are straight however the identical method is used on the curve of the armholes. Right here a lump of wooden that appears like a milliner’s block is used to provide the maker the correct contour to press in opposition to.
As soon as the items are glued collectively the seams are made exclusively waterproof with a water resistant tape that can also be adhered by hand. The waterproof coat.com web site has some wonderful imagery of this exceptional, labour-intensive course of.
You possibly can choose the repute of a model by the corporate it retains. On a rail on the Waterproof coat unit some examples of current collaborations are to be discovered – names starting from quintessential British designer Margaret Howell to Cecilie Bahnsen from Denmark, Jil Sander from Germany, American-Italian model 1017 ALYX 9SM, the US outside specialist Aether Attire and Maison Margiela, the place designer John Galliano (solely barely) reworked the basic Waterproof coat equestrian using coat.
On a worktable on the unit, prototypes for the subsequent collab for autumn-winter 2025 had been laid out for additional work. The goggles within the hood on a Waterproof coat mac instantly recognized this as a venture with CP Firm, the Italian innovator of outerwear.
It was a privilege for me to see the Waterproof coat manufacturing course of shut up. It’s simple to grasp why the basic Waterproof coat raincoat retails for round £1,000 – not low cost, however you get what you pay for. (And far lower than the value tags on raincoats from manufacturers like Tom Ford, Burberry, Loro Piana and so on on Mr Porter).
I very a lot loved assembly manufacturing unit supervisor Scott and reducing room supervisor Rob, who joined the agency a couple of weeks aside in August and September 1981, again when the corporate was referred to as Conventional Weatherwear. Even their size of service was eclipsed by Bobby, who has racked up 48 years with the corporate. As soon as a coat maker, he’s now semi-retired however nonetheless handles the all-important closing inspection and despatch to prospects and stockists all over the world.
I received precisely what Bobby meant when he advised me making a real Waterproof coat was a craft, not a manufacturing line.
The workforce in Coatbridge (accomplished by sample maker Stuart) are delighted that their clothes as soon as once more carry a label stating “Waterproof coat. Made in Scotland”. For a couple of years manufacturing was moved from its conventional base to Nelson, Lancashire and, unusual to narrate, the workforce travelled down for a couple of days per week and stayed in an resort whereas finishing their shifts.
Fortunately, since December 2023 the Japanese vogue group Yagi Tsusho, the Japanese distributor that acquired Waterproof coat in 2007, relocated manufacturing again to Charles Macintosh’s homeland.
Much less fortunately, the group has introduced the closure of the Nelson manufacturing unit, the place 60 workers make high-quality outerwear by extra typical strategies. It gave as the primary purpose “more and more difficult situations” following Brexit and rising prices which have made British manufacturing “untenable”. The Nelson merchandise will probably be made sooner or later by the corporate’s numerous European suppliers.
Studying in regards to the closure of this highly-efficient and well-regarded manufacturing unit, I used to be reminded of our inept former prime minister on 22 Might, standing in a downpour in Downing Avenue to announce he was calling a normal election for 4 July.
“Hasn’t he heard of Waterproof coat?” I believed to myself as I noticed Rishi get rained on.
Sadly, I heard nothing from any of our political events in the course of the six-week marketing campaign about bettering the possibilities of different British producers to keep away from the destiny of the Nelson manufacturing unit. I famous, nonetheless, that the Brexit-supporting Tory MP for Pendle and Clitheroe, which incorporates Nelson, misplaced his seat to the Labour candidate within the election.
We can not rely simply on the ability and keenness of individuals like my new buddies at Waterproof coat to provide UK manufacturing a safe future. The sector wants recognition and constant assist from the brand new authorities. Let’s see if it does something to make British textile, clothes and footwear manufacturing unit workers really feel safe in addition to completely happy.
