The autumn/winter 2025 version of London Trend Week is underway, with Bora Aksu, Harris Reed and Mark Quick among the many designers to have already shared their collections for the season.
TheIndustry.vogue present hopped to get the inside track on the newest developments and must-see collections from the primary few days of LFW AW25.
Daniel Fletcher’s debut assortment for Mithridate was, properly, very Daniel Fletcher
Daniel Fletcher arrived on the Chinese language model Mithridate with a bang. Although the gathering was a far cry from Mithridate’s prior works, which just about felt demi-couture, the British designer boldly put his preppy flare on show for all to see.
Fusing British heritage and Chinese language craftsmanship, Fletcher brings English concepts of costume to life – whether or not that be by way of a tailor-made ensemble or preppy knits with matching shirts. Every look was composed of storied parts of the British wardrobe however with a up to date aptitude. Assume tailor-made coats paired with drop-waist ball robes and ladylike silhouettes juxtaposed and layered with woollen zip-up hoodies.
Impressed by Richard Curtis’ screenplays, referenced by the romcom-themed soundtrack, Fletcher gave fluffy knits and woody suedes main roles in Mithridate’s story. The designer additionally references poor style, represented by sickly pastels of yellow and inexperienced alongside preppy hues.Â
As a part of the finale, teenage angst was channelled because the audio system boomed. Rock’n’roll prints and configurations headed down the runway, nodding to a rebellious spirit that’s by some means simply as British because the put collectively, preppiness that got here earlier than it.
Mithridate stated the gathering ‘presents a brand new imaginative and prescient which is nostalgic in affect, but up to date in execution’. The AW25 assortment was actually a brand new imaginative and prescient and period for the model, ushered in by its new Artistic Director.
Paul Costelloe showcases Eighties countryside glamour along with his equestrian-inspired presentÂ
Irish-American designer Paul Costelloe gave a lesson in elevating nation put on along with his autumn/winter 2025 assortment at London Trend Week. Offered to the symphonies of Celtic music, Costelloe stayed true to his roots, incorporating heavy Magees of Eire and Harris Tweed of Scotland – weaving Celtic accents into the gathering.
Impressed by the elite pastime of dressage, Costelloe mirrored the quantity, house and vitality obvious within the passion. With luxurious flowing robes, ruffled miniskirts and pluming wool coats – the present offered a contemporary tackle the equestrian fashion. The color palette was one in every of chestnut browns, lotions, berry reds and forest greens.
Costelloe performed with loud prints, corresponding to minidresses and night robes emblazoned with classic images of showjumping and dressage. In the meantime, driving blazers and culottes had been paired with dainty stilettos and wool stockings, and pluming thick-waisted skirts had been styled with suspenders and suede night gloves. Nonetheless, the outerwear was undoubtedly the star of the present. Each female but sensible, the coats and capes evoked Chloé’s eminent AW24 assortment.
Equipment additionally performed a key half throughout the vogue week present, with saddle luggage in full grain leather-based, thick-waisted belts and fingerless driving gloves additional evoking the delicate nation pastime.
Harris Reed challenges present viewers ‘to be very uncomfortable’
Harris Reed, recognized for his gender-fluid designs, kicked off London Trend Week final night time with an autumn/winter assortment designed to make spectators “very uncomfortable”. “I need everybody to be very uncomfortable,” Reed stated. “I feel by uncomfortably, you look deeper inside and query quite a bit about your self and your environment.”
British actress Florence Pugh opened the present with a theatrical show. The 29-year-old We Stay In Time star donned a sculptural speared black robe with an organza veil and fluttering false eyelashes.
The broader assortment was made up of three colors, with bursts of cobalt blue and yellow ochre in opposition to pitch black seeping onto the runway. Catsuits, high-rise tutus and caged corsets introduced the maximalist and dynamic magnificence Reed is famed for. In the meantime, feathers, shoulder pads and pencil skirts imbued a comforting sense of nostalgia in opposition to the unorthodox spikes and spherical plumes of Reed’s earlier designs. Towering heeled boots had been paired with every ensemble – as soon as once more a nod to the outrageous platforms of the previous.
When the gathering wrapped up, Reed himself stepped out for a victory lap closing the present, operating off with a soar and a fist pump to the air. There’s little question that vogue lovers share Reeds’ sentiments about this assortment.
Bora Aksu pays tribute to the royal ‘magnificence queen’ Empress Sisi
Bora Aksu paid homage to the famend royal Empress Sisi of Austria on his London Trend Week catwalk. Empress Sisi’s tragic story has seen many retellings throughout movie, TV and now vogue, because the model’s autumn/winter assortment delved into the duality of magnificence and sorrow.
The Turkish designer stayed true to his fashion roots by monochromatic frills, haunting veils and black opera gloves.
The gathering embodied the grandeur of the Austrian court docket by structured jackets and overcoats, sweeping veils and complex lacework, evoking the Empress’s rigorously composed public persona. In the meantime, the Empress’s repressed rebel discovered its kind by fluid silhouettes, sharp tailoring and dynamic contrasts, infusing the gathering with an edgier, extra instinctive vitality.
The abundance of textures throughout the gathering performed throughout a palette of whites and lotions, punctuated by stark berry reds, opulent purples and nautical blue tones. Delicate white lace and complex female patterns evoked Empress Sisi’s ethereal presence, whereas dramatic silhouettes, veils and darkish accents hinted on the turbulence beneath the floor. Delicate, flowing materials juxtaposed with daring tailoring created clothes that captured each vulnerability and power.
Gothic glamour dominated the runway at Mark Quick
Mark Quick opened his present with a vampire-esq ensemble and the gothic glamour did not finish there. The voluminous robes oozed romance with each swish of material as they glided by the packed benches of onlookers dressed of their best LFW appears. Nonetheless, in basic Quick vogue, robes had been adopted by bodycon mini attire that made their approach down the overly-lit runway, this time imaged in each velvets and stretchy knits.
As the colors turned brighter and hemlines increased, Quick, famend for dressing the clubgoers amongst us, injected the environment with a shot of Nineteen Eighties new wave by way of the sound system.
The designer used corseted tops and attire to serve as symbols of the previous reimagined, juxtaposing vintage methods with trendy silhouettes. In the meantime, knitted straps wrapped round fashions’ necks, embellished with chains that weave by the gathering, unbreakable but fluid. And naturally, the place there are Mark Quick bandage attire, there are Mark Quick colour-saturated denim mini shorts.
General, the AW25 assortment embraces modernity reimagined in classical kinds, all underpinned by the designer’s well-known knitted methods.
