London Vogue Week kicked off at this time with a nod to the Swinging Sixties by Irish designer Paul Costelloe and Turkish designer Bora Aksu, in addition to a garbs match for neon nights in town from Mark Quick, and extra.
TheIndustry.trend present hopped to get the inside track on the newest developments and must-see collections from the primary full day of LFW SS25.
Paul Costelloe channels Jackie Kennedy in Sixties-inspired London Vogue Week present
Irish designer Paul Costelloe turned again time on the LFW runway together with his Sixties-inspired spring/summer time 2025 assortment. Costelloe, 79, is understood for his elegant and basic tailoring, mixing conventional and modern design.
Costelloe’s assortment debuted on the Waldorf Hilton in London. The brilliant white marble atrium was the right setting to showcase his Parisian-inspired designs. The gathering was titled ‘Le ciel est bleu’, which means the sky is blue in French – which Costelloe delivered in abundance. The present started with a flooding of cornflower blue – Sixties swing attire and preppy pleated workwear drenched the runway in an ode to the extremely female, sensible and complicated road fashion of Sixties Paris.
Whereas blues reigned supreme, Costelloe additionally launched shades of rose, mint inexperienced and buttercup yellow to signify the pastels of spring. He had enjoyable with playful silhouettes too, that includes bubble skirts and balloon sleeves, in addition to exaggerated ruffles and female frills. The designer additionally showcased tailoring by sartorial Irish linen jumpsuits, silk jacquard skirts and wool blazers paying homage to Jackie Kennedy’s timeless First Woman wardrobe. The fashions even strutted the runway in beehives and rounded bouffants.
Costelloe then closed the present together with his first-ever bridal assortment, which featured three marriage ceremony attire in crisp satin finishes. The basic silhouettes had been adorned with looping bows and blooming roses, embodying a real romantic class.
Bora Aksu channels petticoats galore in assortment that pays homage to his late mom
This season, Bora’s babes are again as per typical. An abundance of lace, frills, mesh, and a truck-load of petticoats graced the entrance row as journalists, influencers and celebrities clamoured into St Paul’s Church in Covent Backyard – an eerily quiet setting within the hustle and bustle of vacationer central.
The gothic structure grew to become a backdrop for Bora’s signature fashion, which noticed pale pink lace juxtaposed with black mesh, charming the duality of innocence and subversion. Juxtaposing sharp tailoring met tender detailing to create clothes that pair metres of sheer pastel materials with wealthy floral embroidery that is paying homage to mid-century detailing.
Final season, after we interviewed Bora Aksu backstage, he grew to become teary-eyed when telling us about his mom’s current passing. This season, the gathering pays homage to his mom Birsen Aksu, who designed her personal clothes within the Sixties after struggling to search out garments that expressed her individuality in Turkey, the place she grew up. It’s this pursuit of magnificence, this celebration of the feminine spirit that carries by this assortment.
“My entire identification as a designer comes by way of my mom. Rising up watching her class and elegance in addition to her energy as an impartial girl instilled in me a deep reverence for femininity and a love for the method of creation, to at the present time she is my biggest supply of inspiration”, stated Bora Aksu.
DI PETSA faucets designer’s Greek heritage and debuts first menswear assortment
DI PETSA returned to London Vogue Week with an introspective assortment impressed by the parable of Ariadne and Theseus, reframing the traditional story to discover the labyrinth inside the self, the place want, loss, and the seek for love collide.
The catwalk opened with a brand new print for the model – ‘The Tan Line’. This nostalgic nod to summer time’s fading heat was juxtaposed with the Greek designer’s signature material, reimagined in flowing silks and meshes in vibrant degradé colors, “mimicking the merging of the bodily and emotional our bodies”.
One other new introduction was the “Tama” bag, that includes hand carved metallic hand sewn onto deadstock and vegan leather-based.
The present additionally marked the model’s debut into gender fluid menswear, with DI PETSA’s signature ‘Wetlook’ reimagined for the male kind in a burst of pastel gradient hues – and remodeled for the on a regular basis right into a draped white cotton wetlook hoodie and tracksuit backside set. Pure light-weight linens had been used for draped trousers and open shirt appears to be like – left open from a cool summer time breeze, persevering with the theme of summer time’s fading heat.
Pam Hogg declares her LFW assortment to be her ‘finest work but’
Entitled Of Gods And Monsters, Pam Hogg’s latest assortment contains opulent headpieces, luxurious velvets, buckled belts and animal bones.
Hogg, who is understood for her political, punkish and avant-garde work, has dressed the likes of Woman Gaga, Naomi Campbell and Debbie Harry of Blondie. Launching her namesake label in 1981, her collections are flamboyant and fearless, and even perhaps stronger at this time as she holds a mirror as much as society by her disordered and disrupted designs.
Her newest LFW assortment blends coquettish opulence with uncooked offcuts. Ensembles featured fashions dripping in pearls while their garments had been sure along with belt buckles and fixed with security pins. The designer wished to painting the injustices of battle, with every mannequin carrying a colossal headpiece, to signify each the bodily and psychological burden of struggle.
In the meantime, the opulence juxtaposed with a baggage trunk on the mannequin’s bag delivered to floor the actual fact struggle, displacement and disruption can occur to anybody – no matter social rank. Many ensembles had been common out of bulbous garbage bag-like silhouettes, sure along with rope and discarded supplies. Nonetheless, the gathering was nonetheless quintessentially Hogg with platform leather-based boots and grunge midi-skirts current.
