The intense sunshine and clear skies above Florence at present (Tuesday) was a welcome carry to the spirits because the 107th version of Pitti Uomo Immagine welcomed main gamers within the international menswear market.
Beginning within the second week of January relatively than the primary, which is extra typical, prompted a really buzzy attendance contained in the halls on the Fortezza da Basso advanced on the morning. Exhibitors had been hoping this mirrored an keen perspective from consumers in direction of the autumn-winter collections on present however there was a common resignation that 2025 was going to be one other difficult 12 months for the premium sector of the menswear trade the Italian truthful serves.
Many main markets world wide proceed to attempt to discover a post-COVID equilibrium. What the second Trump presidency will imply for the US financial system and, maybe extra importantly, for world commerce is a widespread concern. Japan’s Yen continues to be weak and South Korea is in political turmoil, two points that injury gross sales to one of the best Far Jap markets, whereas China has nonetheless not returned to pre-COVID ranges.
With most European markets being described, at greatest, as flat, nobody is anticipating AW25 to be a record-breaker.
Discuss at Pitti Uomo centred on buying and selling challenges within the UK
Among the many 43 British exhibitors coordinated by the UK Style & Textile Affiliation (UKFT), the approaching monetary affect of final October’s Price range is a main concern. Thus far, wholesale value will increase are within the 2%-4% area however there are widespread predictions of job losses within the UK manufacturing sector later this 12 months as enterprise homeowners and managers attempt to deal with the fiscal squeeze.
“The additional prices of the Price range will quantity to about £125,000 to us,” stated William Church, director and co-owner of Northants-based footwear producer Joseph Cheaney. “and we’ll must promote much more pairs of footwear to cowl that. I wouldn’t thoughts being taxed on income as a result of then you may have the cash to pay, however this appears to many people like a personal sector employment tax.
“It’s going to have a huge impact on British heritage craft companies like ours, which by their very nature are labour-intensive. We’re all already coping with working in opposition to a robust headwind globally – Japan, which has been flat for a number of years, is our greatest market – and now this. What is especially irritating is these NI and wage rises received’t hit importers’ prices, solely employers within the UK.”
Whereas acknowledging the challenges of the market, Invoice Leach, international gross sales director of British knitwear producer John Smedley, stated he’s been inspired by the response of main prospects he has already seen. “After orders being reduce for the previous few seasons following the lockdown, I’m seeing retailers like Harrods, Mr Porter and Selfridges being extra inclined to order extra confidently.
“As Pitti Uomo by no means begins till the primary Tuesday after the Epiphany (January 6) vacation in Italy, this 12 months it has gone into the second week of January, which ought to assist with attendance by Italian retailers. Nevertheless it has brought on an overlap with the New York menswear market week, which has already began, and it has narrowed the hole earlier than Chinese language New Yr (January 29), so these are a pair extra components that have an effect on worldwide consumers.”
Ahead-looking British consumers proceed to discover a journey to Florence worthwhile. Since COVID, the IMC shopping for group, which has 140 members working about 220 doorways within the better-end of the menswear market, has organised a gaggle journey to the present.
This season 16 IMC members, together with William Coe of Coes of Ipswich, Matthew Hansford of Hansfords in Chichester, Gary Culver of Frederick L Mabb in Dorchester and John Lambert of the eight-strong County Garments in Kent and Sussex, had been in attendance.
The group is in dialogue with the administration of Pitti about bringing extra first-time UK guests to Pitti, which stays the premier present on the planet for traditional mainstream menswear.
A robust contingent of British retailers made the journey to Florence
It additionally offers inspiration and new manufacturers for veteran guests. Keith McNichol began his Richmond Classics store in Bournemouth in 1988 and has been to most editions of Pitti Uomo for the reason that early Nineteen Nineties.
“As an unbiased, I’m persevering with to play to my strengths for 2025, so my motto is: Don’t comply with, lead. Coming right here to Florence after which occurring the occasions in Paris, I can reckon to choose up 4 or 5 new manufacturers each season. Not mentioning the title, however I discovered a shoe model right here at Pitti three seasons in the past and I’ve been attaining 90%-plus sell-throughs on it at £195 a pair. There isn’t any price-resistance if the product is correct.
“When I’m right here at Pitti I’m on the lookout for new suppliers in order that my prospects can’t say to me ‘They’ve acquired that in Flannels’. Too many manufacturers are narrow-minded and are going DTC (direct to shopper) or dealing solely with the most important teams to get gross sales. A visit to Pitti is at all times well worth the effort.”
Pitti Uomo was began in 1972 and has been based mostly on the historic Fortezza da Basso advanced since 1982. For its 107thversion it’s presenting 770 menswear manufacturers, with 45% being non-Italian, over its four-day schedule. This season LVMH prize winner Satoshi Kuwata has introduced the Setchu line to Pitti for his first runway present and MM6 Maison Margiela has created an unique assortment for the occasion, however most British consumers are extra all for what’s on provide within the 5 sections of the exhibition.
